Hey guys, ran into some thermal throttling issues with my i7-7700k (100c basically all the time, 800-2000mhz speeds) so I'm looking for a new cpu, anyone down to help?

I'm looking to run 1440p 144hz eventually so I don't mind laying down an average sum of cash for one, just need some suggestions.

Is it worth the switch to AMD? Every forum I look at online has someone buying AMD nowadays

I've tried fixing this i7-7700k by remounting the cooler, reapplying thermal paste, changing BIOS settings, making sure the pump is working, but nothing seems to help.

an good graphiccard is more important for your requirements than the cpu.

an what are you running?

"Making sure the pump is working" - so you are using water cooling. Are you 100% sure you have mounted the radiator correctly? Otherwise, your pump runs but doesn't actually pump anything because it's full of air.

See this very nice video on how to mount them and why: https://youtube.com/watch/...

That could be a very cheap problem fix.

@Fast-Nop I am 100% sure the pump is mounted correctly (it's a h100i v2 if you are curious)

@MrSledgeGaming It's mainly the cooler mounting within the case, not just the pump mounting.

So you're likely not really 100% sure because otherwise, you would have known that.

@stop while that is true, I still need a cpu that works enough so that my 1080 can do its job

This is my system

i7-7700k + h100i v2
Zotac 1080
DDR4 @ 2999 (somewhere around there) @ 8gb x2

@Fast-Nop I've reinstalled it a bunch of times, at this point I'm comfortable saying that the pump is not the culprit

The i7-7700k is a chip known to have heat issues due to its thermal paste under the lid on the die of the cpu.

Deliding the cpu is an option, but I don't feel comfortable doing it and would rather upgrade the card instead

@MrSledgeGaming OK, so just watch the video. From your comments, I think it's possible that you might be oblivious to the underlying problems, and that could be what might make you erroneously think the setup is correct. Or I might be wrong in that suspicion, dunno.

Because, fresh thermal paste, pump running, and still suddenly thermal throttling - that points to a severe issue with the cooling system.

@Fast-Nop I have watched that video, and it is installed correctly

Yeah OK, so if you want to switch, then you're looking at a new mobo for a Ryzen CPU. What RAM do you have now? How much money do you want to spend? What OS are you running (I guess Windows for gaming)?

@Fast-Nop this isn't a sudden change either, I've been dealing with this problem for quite a while, and while yes, running a cpu at 100c is basically asking for it to be damaged, there is a post on the Intel forums about this exact same issue and intel themselves said they found nothing wrong with it running that high. A certain batch of the cards was basically made to be a volcano inside ur pc. I've just happened to get a bad bad apple

@Fast-Nop

I'm running DDR4-2933 8gb (x2)
Windows yes
About 500? I'm in Canada and would rather spend more then spend less

@MrSledgeGaming Newer Ryzens support up to 3200 RAM, but I don't think it would be worth the price of buying new, so I'd just stick with the RAM you have, at least for now.

At that price range, you have the choice between a higher 3000 Ryzen (e.g. 3800X) or a 5600X. The total performance is similar, but the 5600X has better single-thread performance and lower power draw, so I'd choose that if you can get one.

@MrSledgeGaming Don't cheap out on the mobo though. Changing a CPU is much easier than changing a mobo, especially later when you get used CPUs on Ebay.

You're in a tough spot now because the AM4 socket is reaching its EOL so that recent AM4 mobos won't be future proof - they're only good for DDR4 while DDR5 is the future. However, the B550 chipset offers PCIe 4.0, so that might be something for high-speed storage.

Otherwise, I can recommend the Asus ROG Gaming mobos. Either the B450-F or the B550-F. Both support the 5600X, but may require a BIOS update (the B450-F most definitely).

The B550-F supports BIOS update even without CPU while the B450-F doesn't so that the B450-F BIOS update will pose some hassle with temporary CPU just to update the BIOS.

The B550-F also supports 2.5GBps Ethernet onboard while the B450-F only goes to 1GPBps.

@Fast-Nop is there a preference for mobo? Is there any cons I should know about switching to amd? I've been an Intel fan boy all my life

Woops didn't scroll sorry

@Fast-Nop so it looks like a B550F + 5600X is the way to go then? Yeah being AM4 sucks as well

You sure everything is ok?

@MrSledgeGaming Yeah that "temporary older CPU required for BIOS update" shit is annoying with AMD.

AMD does offer "boot kits" where they send you an old CPU that you'll send back afterwards, but it's some back and forth hassle.

It's not an issue with mobos like Asus B550-F that can update the BIOS without any CPU installed.

So if the around 60 bucks more for Asus B550-F compared to B450-F aren't an issue, I'd take that. You may also look into the Asus B550-I that has Wifi onboard if you want that.

Since you're under Windows, the new 2.5GPps ethernet chips should be supported - some Linux distros had problems with that OOTB, that's why I asked about the OS.

So yeah, I think AMD 5600X plus Asus B550-F is a reasonable choice. But before you buy, better wait a bit, maybe other posters disagree and can point out better options.

@lamka02sk I wish it was as simple as that lol

@Fast-Nop I will wait for more posters opinions. Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts <3

I would probably try a different cooler first (buy one and then return it, or maybe try to borrow from someone). The CPU you got is not too bad in terms of performance.

@Fast-Nop there is one more thing, is there anything I should know before swapping to amd? Again, I've been intel all my life

@lamka02sk if it ends up being the cooler, I will eat my words and buy a different cooler, but right now, my testing seems to say otherwise.

@MrSledgeGaming Oh and one thing for most AM4 mobos in general - by default, they will run with RAM standard JEDEC speed of up to 2666. You'll need to activate XMP in the BIOS manually - Asus calls this "DOCP".

Also, Ryzens really like dual channel RAM config, so don't run with a single RAM bar. In general, high RAM speeds work better on many mobos if you have exactly two RAM bars, not four.

Ideally with a two RAM bar kit because that's the same production lot. Same as with Intel mobos I think.

@Fast-Nop that's perfect, I wasn't planning on upgrading my ram anytime soon anyway. Thanks for the info

@Fast-Nop looks like the 5600x is sold out and on backorder everywhere, what would the alternatives be (both more expensive and less expensive)

@MrSledgeGaming Ah and a Ryzen specific thing with the temperature: they use their thermal budget for flexible clocking, which means that they can run a bit hot. Idle in the 40°C range is already good.

Temperature monitor tools can be unrealiable especially in idle because they query the CPU at high freuqnecy - and prevent it from clocking down in the first place.

Delidding is not something to look at because they're soldered already.

@MrSledgeGaming The next step up is the 5800X. In the recommended price listing, that CPU is quite unattractive because it's too expensive relative to the next higher 5900X. However, the current pricing is demand and supply with "what-you-can-get-at-all", so all bets are off.

Within the 5000 Ryzen range, the 5600X is already the lowest one, so there is nothing below that.

In that case, a 3800X or 3800XT could be an option at a similar price, though with clearly worse single thread performance. Or the 3700X which isn't that much slower, but draws a lot less power.

All of these Ryzen 3000 have a similar single thread performance as your current 7700k, but easily twice the multi thread performance.

@Fast-Nop what if I stayed intel with a i7-9700k? I might even slap more money down if I can cut the cost of paying for a new mobo

@Fast-Nop I contacted a friend about the 5-series and he says that itl take about 3 weeks on the wait list (that's why I'm suddenly thinking intel)

@MrSledgeGaming The 9700K would be between Ryzen 3000 and 5000 for single thread.

It would be clearly worse than even 3000 for multi thread, but bear in mind that this only plays a role if you can use much more than 8 threads to begin with - which many games don't.

AFAIK, the 9700K is soldered so that you would also solve the heat transfer problem.

Plus that it would be less work to just swap the CPU and keep using your current rig otherwise.

@Fast-Nop what do you mean by the cpu being soldered? I haven't heard of that before

@MrSledgeGaming The 7700K has thermal paste between the CPU die and the CPU heat spreader (the metal surface you see). That is cheaper to produce, but sucks for heat transfer, which is why delidding even is an option. That's why this thing is running hot.

The 9700K doesn't have thermal paste inside the CPU, but uses solder, i.e. metal, and that conducts heat a lot better than thermal paste. Means, you don't need to delid, and in fact you can't without probably destroying the CPU.

All in all, you can expect the 9700K to run a lot cooler than the 7700K, and also be quite a bit faster.

@Fast-Nop my friend is telling me that amd CPUs get better with updates and Intel's chips pretty much stay the same so it's worth the wait. While I can testify for the Intel portion of that comment, what do you think about the amd portion?

However, an even cheaper idea: if you're looking at buying a 9700K (or even AMD mobo plus CPU), why not trying to delid the 7700K before and using liquid metal instead of internal thermal paste?

If you destroy the 7700K in the process, so what, that would only put you at buying a new CPU or CPU+mobo - which you wanted to do anyway.

@Fast-Nop I thought about that, but I'd need to order a tool for it, which, I'm not sure if I want to do. I skimmed across someone in a forum saying that they did it with an exacto-knife, but I'm unsure of the success rates for that

@MrSledgeGaming I think that's a bit mixed up with the updates. It's true that Intel has been stagnating for quite a while while AMD brought newer and better products - but AMD CPUs don't really get faster after the purchase. That's only somewhat true for AMD graphics cards because the drivers get better.

@Fast-Nop I see, have you delided a cpu before? I'm unsure of how gentle/rough I'd have to be with it (obv you'd have to be careful with the pcb bring right there)

@MrSledgeGaming Well, in a "fuck it" scenario, I'd use a slotted razor blade and cut the silicone sealing very carefully, after watching quite some YT videos in order to not cut off the little components behind the sealing.

And cut from the metal heat spreader side, i.e. the upper side, not from the bottom side. Then remove all of the old sealing from the bottom (CPU) side with your finger nails.

Then use some clear nail polish so seal off the CPU components, apply liquid metal, use some silicone from a local DIY shop and glue that stuff together again.

After all, if the plan is to ditch the CPU, you don't have anything to lose. At worst, you'd buy a bit of liquid metal and nail polish for nothing.

@MrSledgeGaming No, I myself have always been buying soldered CPUs to begin with, but it doesn't look too difficult in the videos, provided that you are a DIY tinkerer.

@Fast-Nop Well I got a ifixit kit which should help tons and I've taken screens off phones before that use really good adhesive. Maybe it will work. All I got around me is some arctic silver 5 but even that stuff will be better than what's in it now

It could also be a clogged up block on the cooler. I don't know about common failure modes for that model, but AIOs aren't eternal. If you are planning to buy a cooler for the new system anyway, you could buy that first and see if it fixes the problem. Or you could also try how it behaves with the stock cooler if you have one.

@electrineer is there any symptoms for blockage? I can feel fluid moving through it fine and while the cpu is 100c the fluid inside is reporting 63c. iCUE reports that the rpm is going from 0->360->240 every 3 secs or so

@MrSledgeGaming The difference between thermal pastes are not that large compared to liquid metal - which is comparable to soldered CPUs.

Once you get the CPU metal cover off, sealing the internal components with clear nail polish is easy, and then using liquid metal is also easy.

@Fast-Nop yeah I think if anything, putting the heat spreader back on is gunna be the problem

@MrSledgeGaming I'd seal the rim off with fresh silicone paste, and then use the screw-on CPU cooler (pump in your case) to hold the whole stuff in place.

If it works out, you're looking at less than 20 bucks to fix the issue, so that's worth the hassle.

@Fast-Nop I'm going to try deliding now, wish me luck

@MrSledgeGaming Don't cut in deep - very gently, like half a mm at a time.

@Fast-Nop can't seem to get underneath the heatspreader

@MrSledgeGaming You need a thin, sharp blade such as a slotted razor, and gently cutting. That means a pulling blade movement, not a pressing one.

@Fast-Nop this is the blade I'm using

@MrSledgeGaming That looks pretty thick relative to a razor, and probably also blunt. Granted, I have slotted razor blades readily available because I also use them for actually shaving.

@Fast-Nop I'm gunna try to take a razor off a disposable one, maybe it'll work better

Idk if I can do it with what I got, I'm not getting anything

Nvm I think I got a corner

@MrSledgeGaming It's a slow process. You have only one chance, so take your time and don't rush it.

@Fast-Nop I'm shaking like a mf'er but it's off

@MrSledgeGaming Congrats! So now it's using your finger nails or some plastic card (no blades!) to remove the black stuff carefully.

And get some clear nail polish plus ordering liquid metal.

You can clean the old thermal paste away with isopropanol or white spirit - just avoid acetone.

@Fast-Nop isn't the black stuff just adhesive? Should be fine to stick back on cuz its being supported by the cooler no? (When it's screwed in)

@MrSledgeGaming If you want a quick and dirty try with your Arctic Silver paste, that's something you can try without ordering anything, so why not.

If you rely on the cooler holding things together, you can bypass the need to glue something, yeah.

Also, you don't need nail polish because your thermal paste isn't electrically conductive (unlike liquid metal).

Just clean that old thermal paste away thoroughly.

@Fast-Nop hmm it starts but it's not posting

F in chat?

Oo cpu led is red on mobo, yep prolly ded

Alright well it looks like I'm ordering a cpu, 9700k is good yeah?

So do you have the heat spreader now on? Did you clean the black glue off?

@electrineer I didn't take the black stuff off, do you think that could cause no post?

Uh... maybe removing the mobo battery for a few minutes to reset it. And check that you applied enough of the Arctic Silver? And that you put on the metal cover afterwards?

But otherwise, I guess a 9700K would be your cheapest option at that point - maybe even a used one via Ebay.

Il get it cleaned up and show a pic of it, I think it's cuz I used my other blade first, there's some notable copper showing where I tried to get under it the first time, if I had started with a disposable razor, I think I would have been fine.

Ordered a 9700k off Amazon, should be coming tomorrow

@Fast-Nop

Yeah without question that's what it was, well it's good to have to the knowledge to do it, can't have everything succeed on it's first time. Thanks for sticking with me for better part of the day @Fast-Nop

@MrSledgeGaming ouch

@Nanos Firefox can't cause your cpu to thermal throttle if there is no cooling issue

@Nanos lmao look at the last posts in this thread.

Yeah I tried all that shizz

@electrineer eh no big deal, I wanted to upgrade it anyway

Well, at least its doesn't thermal throttle any more

@electrineer lmaoooo

Just here to say, i enjoyed the conversation 👍🏼

@MrSledgeGaming i7-7xxx is enough for all what you've described. CPUs haven't improved that much in last decade.

It's too late now, but have you made sure there is no air in the CPU waterblock? And to make absolutely sure it's not the issue, have removed the sticker on the underside of the CPU cooler?

Also, you might want to switch the legendary Artic Silver 5 for something newer like liquid metal (but only if your cooler is compatible ofc!)

@SuspiciousBug Going with liquid metal as TIM is pointless with a 7700K unless you also delid, which the OP did, but unsuccessfully.