3D printer.
fillament.
Pieces won't fucking stick.
Hey 3D guys. So... I changed to my second fillament rool, from white to black PLA.
The white worked perfectly, but I'm having lots of problems with the black. It just doesn't stick right on the table and than drags strings , with ends up fucking the piece.
I was printing at 200C, now upped to 220C and it just seams to cool to fast or something...
Cleaned the table, leveled like 30 times so far, using lots of airspray...
Do I need to up the heat more? Or may I already givint to much?
the fillament says from 220C to 260C, but I'm afraid the 3D printer can't handle arround 250C

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calling_the_herd(3D Printer)
{
User[ ] = { @Haxk20 , @vane , @ScriptCoded , @geaz , @Codex404 }
}
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I always use cheap paper glue stick, put 2 layers of it on bed and it sticks all the time so hard I have struggle to get the part without harming bed 🤷‍♂️ and I got heatbed.

Another problem is how gcode was generated I had one part that I needed to print in lower quality cause gcode was to packed next to each other.

So maybe increase or decrease quality (print line size) and see if it makes difference.

@vane Thanks for the tips. Gonna buy the glue.... Btw what fillament works best for you? I only have experience with white and black. Wanted to buy some glowing and cristal, but now I don't know...

@GyroGearloose I am only printing in PLA since it’s only a hobby and I don’t have color preference so won’t help you with materials.
Well color doesn’t matter.

About materials I had this link
https://filaments.ca/pages/...
Or any other from company that produce filaments.

@vane Na, I mean the colors... I guess different colors may need different temperatures...

Do you have a heated bed?

Which hotend? If you dont have a all metal one, stay below 250°C. Otherwise the tube inside will melt.

What is the thickness of you first layer?

@geaz agree with you. @GyroGearloose and if you have a heatbed I suggest installing a printbite surface on top of it. That way you don't need any first layer adhesion hack like glue or masking tape and it is waaaay cleaner. I used to use glue but hate cleaning that mess after the print is done

Try to imagine what has to happen, that pieces fall off if gcode is good:
When you heat a material it changes its volume. For example metal reduces its volume if you heat it. Other materials behave in an other way.
Same does your filament.
Therefore you need to get it cooled out slowly. The slowlier it cools out the better the chances are that it doesn't start warping. No warping, no problem.
That's why i would recommend the same as @Haxk20, just with other reasons. First layer 30mm/s. The more layer at the ground you print that slowly, the better your chances are. Aaand heat bed. Do you have a heatbed? They influence cooling of the first layer even more than low speeds.
Aaaand stop your cooling fan the first few layer.
And while you try that stuff and lose hours and hours and hours safe some money and overthink my suggestion referring to filaprint.

Try with a Raft or smth, it always worked with a raft for me...

Some PLA is easier to print with than other. Ive tried some more expensive PLA and there was a lot of difference between colors. Now I have a cheap local brand from a small webshop and never had problems with sticking again.

This shop also takes back opened rolls (if there is not to much filament used). I think they use it for the samples they sell. (5 colors of 5 meter of the same brand)

Its called 123-3d.nl but I dont think they deliver outside of the netherlands and maybe belgium.

Hmm, haven't done too much printing yet, but just like @vane I've found that glue stick works the best. Tape is also really annoying when it breaks.

How are your bottom layers looking? Could be that you're printing with the wrong extrusion speed.

Also, which printer are you using? :)

Ok....
I have a hotbed, should go up to 100C but only goes up to 60C
I'm using these parameters right now:
Layer Height: 0.2
Inicial Layer H: 0.2 (from 0.3 to 0.2)
Infil: 20%
Nose Temp: 230C (from 210C to 230C)
Bed Temp: 60C
Speed: 60 mm/s
Inicial Speed: 20 mm/s (from 30 to 20)
Brim speed: 15 mm/s (from 20 to 15)

Btw gonna buy the blue tape soon or later....
I'll probably have to order ir from China, so it will take a while

@Mizz141 Please explain?

Sory forgout about the printer, it's a Anet A8, a clone of prusa.
Ok, quick fix because I don't want to lieve home yet, contact glue did the trick (And it will be hell to take out the piece lol)
I'm in a rush with these pieces because I should be mounting my 3rd CNC already...
Btw, Adding you guys to the horde

@GyroGearloose rafts and brims can help quite a bit.
A raft is your complete model on top of a few layers of filament and a brim is a small skirt around your model, this basically increases the area on your bed which results in better stivking to the bed

@GyroGearloose
A Raft makes a thicker layer before the print, thats especially helpful for small prints, because PLA sticks better to PLA than Glass...

@Codex404 I'm using Brim... but didn't know about draft....
I probably need more draft than brim, most likely, thanks

@Mizz141 @Codexx404 Raft turned on, I'll use it on next print. Thanks

Got my glue stick....
Fucking Chinese store only sells that cute small school type lol :D
Ordered bed covers (5 blue tape squares 200x200), (1x special something )
It seams that the black fillament really needs more heat, works better at 230C.
Even the fucking contact glue didn't work, It's still printing, It stuck, but the brim has pealed from the table.

@GyroGearloose Brim can peel of a bit, that is not a big deal, as long as your print itself sticks.

For cleaning glue from the bed I use common glass cleaner spray and cleaning cloth and it works perfectly.

@Codex404 It seams it stuck.... next piece will have a Raft, to see if it helps

Is it often the same spot/direction where it starts to peel off? If so, check if maybe there is a too heavy air flow which hits your printer from a specific direction. Got that many times at the beginning until i noticed, that it always happens when one specific window is opened in the room.

@vane to clean the glue I use "diluente" (paint tinner) and in extreme cases I have industrial grade glue solvent lol. Dad's tools

@borderless Nope... all 4 corners of the brim pilled off

@GyroGearloose The glue of the paintstick can easily be removed with a bit of hot water and a fillingknife

Man... White was so easy to deal with... and Now I have 1kg of black...
Anyway, already ordered 1kg cristal (and i'll probably stick with it If i like the pieces cristal clear), ordered the bed covers, but that will all take 1 month.
Anyway, already wasted like 100g in bad prints, and I'll spend 260g (Cura calculated) for each CNC axis, meaning almost 1kg....

@Codex404 got a set of fillingknifes , not the construction type, but the light ones for the kitchen, and even so scrached all my table...
I'll eventually have to buy a new one because I'm passing sand papper (240 and 600) a lot to clean the scraches.
Also made a 3d printed one wich is the best to take out the pieces without scratching :D and it's really strong.

So.... First piece is finally finished.
First, as I pulled (learned a new lesson) the fucking piece brake.
Ok, just need to super glue it...
Then I noticed, it has cracks all over the place in lines.
How can I fix this?
I'm printing at 0.2, 20% infill
Btw, glue stick didn't work.... fucking piece pealed off everywhere.
Glue stick + Air spray, perfect. All the strings are sticking pefectly.

@GyroGearloose I highly advise you to get a pertinax bed surface! No need to use glue sticks or other fancy hacks to get your prints stick!

One more question, because I did not saw it answered right now. What is your first layer height? On PLA it should be 0.1mm, if your remaining layers are 0.2mm. Just do a first layer print after leveling and measure your print with a digital caliper to get the perfect first layer.

So.... Raft doesn't work with this fillament.
Tried twice, and the piece peals off from the raft itself.
testing with just Brim now, plus glue stick, plus air spray.
Also took out the air noozle, testing without air cooler...

Btw, question, when you take the Z (you know, that steps with the piece of paper), do you leave it with 0.1mm or 0 from the nozle to the table?
If you use the paper method, the paper is usually 0.1mm, but I know how to use it to take 0, meaning the nozle is touching the table without preasure.
How do you take your zeros? you leave the paper loose (meaning 0.1) or tight? (touching the table)

Yahhhh fucking piece is pealing off again with just Brim.
What do you guys sugest?

So... It peals and layers doesn't stick right....
Chould I Increase or decrease the temp? (next step I guess)

Alright.... n attempt (lost count).
Brim + Glue stick + contact glue (the stronguest I dare to use)
0.2 Layer

FUCKING PIECE PEALED OFF!!!!
FUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, last try for today.
25mm Brim
Lots of glue stick and contact glue
I'm not wasting the 800g left of this peace of shit black fillament.
Oh, and gonna buy blue tape monday, not waiting a month.... There goes my back up money of this month.

I just read whole thread and it seems to me that black PLA is just wet. Put it to fruit dryer for min 4 hours at 40 to 60 degrees Celsius and try again after that.
Black color is usually lot different because of coloring process - it uses soot for black - and result is rather gooey.
Good luck.